Travel

Yes, a Hotel That Sells Roasted Goat Should Be Called a Goatel

Roasted goat in Kabale I had convinced my expedition team of two Tanzanians and one other American to venture 100 miles off track during an already 1,500-mile journey. My plan was to visit Kabale, a Ugandan city that had been described as the Switzerland of East Africa for its picturesque hills and chilly temperature. With our tires spinning in a ...

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Under the Darkest Sky

It was a chilly September night in the Davis Mountains, deep in the isolated expanse of West Texas. Some 200 people had gathered at the McDonald Observatory outside Fort Davis, hours from the nearest airport, for one of its thrice-weekly Star Parties. The sun receded toward the horizon and distant peaks shimmered on a canvas of pink, orange, and violet ...

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Not the Bali of In-Flight Magazines, But Good Enough

Lumpia in Bali Nothing would go wrong on my parents’ first trip to Bali, I decided. Their Bali would be the stuff of the airline magazine they’d read on the flight there. Their first night would be in one of those cute walled gardens, hidden from the street by an ornate wooden door, which would feel like a secret yet ...

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The Essential Fuel for Evenings in Taiwan

Boba in Taipei Evening is descending on Ximending, and the food hawkers jostle for position, their pushcarts lined up along the curb. Each one is peddling a single kind of snack, made fresh before your eyes. There are hot Yiling onion pies, the size of a child’s palm, golden crisp and sizzling on the grill. There’s stinky tofu, deep-fried and ...

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#Resist in Virginia, with Love and Proper Beer

Imperial IPA in Virginia “By the power invested in me by absolutely nobody I declare you husband and wife!” Once those words left my lips I breathed a quiet sigh of relief. I’m no priest, but in a last-minute reshuffle I had been asked to preside over the ceremony of a couple of very good friends in the heavy Virginia ...

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The 7 Train to Nepalese Breakfast

Sel roti in Queens, NY If not for the routine thunder of the 7 train, I’d be disoriented. Behind me is charted territory: the subway, Queens. Before me is a chunk of Nepal. It’s Sunday morning, and I’m following Shailesh, a Kathmandu-born actor turned activist, through a diverse section of Jackson Heights. My stomach practically utters a whale call as ...

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Mourning the Death of a Muckraker in Malta

Beer in Marsascala In Malta, everyone will probably remember where they were when they heard that investigative journalist Daphne Caruana Galizia was assassinated. She was killed on Monday, shortly after leaving home, when her white Peugeot 108 exploded. Her son, Matthew, was still at home; he heard the explosion and tried to save her. She was 53. I was at ...

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Absinthe, Meet Tropical Slushie Cocktail

Cocktails in St Augustine Down the bar from us sat a 20-something couple. She’d ordered what looked like an adult shaved ice. Taking picture after picture, she said with a laugh, “I don’t want to drink it.” What’d she order, I asked the bartender. A Cabana Boy. The bartender took a banana leaf and deftly looped it in a circle, ...

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