Travel

Never Attribute to the Supernatural That Which Is Adequately Explained by a Golden Retriever

Pan de muerto in Mexico It was mid-October when Fernando bought a fresh pan de muerto in a nearby bakery for the first time this year. It was warm and soft, lightly sweet, and smelled of orange zest and roasted sesame seeds: a familiar smell that would guide deceased relatives to the house two weeks later. While my daughter was ...

Read More »

No Matter How Old You Are, Chilled Butter-Cream Was Best When You Were Young

Makkhan-malai in Lucknow Growing up in Lucknow, a city in the north of India where winters were always bone-chilling, there were only two things that would make us crawl out of our cozy blankets—catching up on the morning sun and the cry of makkhan-malai on the streets. I have feeble memories of an old guy, standing at the doorstep with ...

Read More »

Will Someone Please Make Us This Yemenite Pancake Hybrid Stat?

Lachuch in Tel Aviv The first time I met Irit, she was running around her tiny hole-in-the-wall café, blistering aubergines and squeezing oranges, chopping salad and plonking plates onto tables. All the while, she screeched Hebrew greetings and orders to her customers. Her long grey hair was scraped into a messy bun and she wore a t-shirt with the words ...

Read More »

R&K Insider: Weird World Cup edition

Sign up for R&K Insider, our collection of the most compelling happenings in food, politics, and travel from across the web. I’ve become more or less accustomed to the relentless onslaught of terrifying and terrible news, but shit got weird this week. For example, what is going on in Zimbabwe? There was an “army takeover” and president-for-life Robert Mugabe was ...

Read More »

R&K Insider: Weird World Cup edition

Sign up for R&K Insider, our collection of the most compelling happenings in food, politics, and travel from across the web. I’ve become more or less accustomed to the relentless onslaught of terrifying and terrible news, but shit got weird this week. For example, what is going on in Zimbabwe? There was an “army takeover” and president-for-life Robert Mugabe was ...

Read More »

The Rare Story in Which an Impromptu Beatles Serenade Doesn’t Fill One with Rage

Beer in Kalimpong He strums the guitar, eyes closed, and I watch this silver-haired old man bring the past alive. It’s an old Beatles number, and he hums just the way George would. The glass of beer is cold in my hands, and in a day or two I will be leaving the West Bengal mountain town of Kalimpong and ...

Read More »

A Totally Avoidable Error in Drink Selection at an Italian Food Fair

Licorice mojito in Cesena After overdosing on golden deep-fried arancinis and hearty, brown-spotted piadena stuffed with prosciutto and squacquerone cheese at a street food fair in Cesena, my drowsy gaze lands on a makeshift stall. I’ve just had a couple of plastic glasses of the local Sangiovese wine with which I could easily see myself becoming best friends, but when ...

Read More »

We’ll Skip the Long Religious Hike But That Donkey Driver Sounds Like Quality People

Red wine in Ponferrada “Our position ist here,” said Martin the German policeman, pointing to a screenshot map of Ponferrada—a town best known for its 12th-century Templar castle, in the Bierzo region of northwestern Spain. We teased Martin for his orderliness: his rucksack contents were meticulously sub-bagged and labeled in three languages. But we appreciated his geographical exactitude. He led ...

Read More »